Fire and Ice

Nothing sums up the country of Iceland better than the post header. This country is essentially a series of non-crossable ice glaciers in the centre, surrounded by lava field moonscapes devoid of trees. Explosive geysirs and steaming thermal vents are also thrown in generously to remind you that you are walking on a giant time bomb. With an economy as unstable as their airport-closing volcanos, the saying "they may not have the cash but they sure can bring the ash" is spot on.

In this volcanic hotbed, stands the chasm between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Here, new land is being constantly created for both continents in each direction. 2cm are added every year; always keeping things fresh. Additionally, the barrage of unfathomable sulphur stench that comes with incessant magma activity leaves you a little suspicious of how many people are getting away with passing wind on public buses. I suppose it only compounds the issue that the same sulfur laden geo thermal hot water is used in showers and the water is so soft that you must shower for an hour if you dare use soap. This means that everyone irrevocably smells like fart anyway after a single wash.

Flames, steam and smells included, there is a lot to see in this wild land, aptly described to us as "f$%kin brutal" by the chap at the information desk in the airport. Though I can tell you now that you had better enjoy driving in and out of massive fjords should you come here and hire a car. And be prepared to drive some mountain passes that you would normally ignore instantly back home; they're the ony way to get from A to B sometimes and they are particularly hairy.

You can cover some enormous distances on the roads too at this time of year this far north, since it never gets dark - ever. Sure there are some weird downsides, sleep can be tough and nightclubs are basically shitty bars with really thick curtains, but overall really long days enable you to get some amazing value for money as far as sightseeing goes.

Iceland, flying in the face of international convention as always, offers some lesser known delicacies to the adventurous diner. Skyr (milk that was poured over meat), puffin (yes, the cute little bird) and minke whale shish kebabs (yes, whale) .. affectionately referred to as "Moby Dick on a stick" are all on offer. Whale tastes like venison by the way, nothing fishy about it really.

It is kind of amusing however that despite the capital (Reykavik) having numerous awesome restaurants, the single most popular eatery is a decrepit old hot dog stand down by the old harbour. Seriously, this thing is constantly surrounded by people and the man inside makes satisfying hot dogs satisfyingly fast. When you see a photo on the wall inside the stall showing Bill Clinton chowing down on a dog, you know you've arrived at a hot dog stand of aficionados around the world.

Iceland, was colonised by the Norse vikings and that legacy still shines on to this day. Icelandic language is like a snapshot of Norwegian from 900 years ago, boats and fishing are par for the course, most people have names ending in their father's first name followed by "son" or "dottir" and men still have a fondness for epic neck-beards.

Iceland is covered in arctic horses too, which were brought across by the vikings. These horses are brilliant; they are social, friendly and love to sleep lying down on the ground which I am told is completely alien to other horse breeds. A ride on these beautiful creatures on black ash beaches in the presence of epic mountains drenched in afternoon sunlight was just magic. I seriously can't do justice to how fantastical this horse ride was in words.

Iceland was a stunning place with stunning character and equally stunning price tags ... and you know, it's not really made entirely of ice. I suspect Greenland isn't green either ...